frequently asked questions
What do I have to do to prepare for service?
The main preparation is thorough vacuuming of carpets prior to treatment. If possible, the bag should be changed after final vacuum before service. Non-carpeted floors should be cleaned prior to treatment so they will not need to be cleaned for awhile. Planning should be done to have any pets professionally treated at or near the time of service. (TOP)
No. We are no longer allowed to treat pets. Most veterinarians and animal clinics have a wide variety of quality flea treatments for pets. The topical once a month products work quite well. Your vet can tell you if your pet qualifies for this type of treatment. The larger pet stores usually have good products also. (TOP)
Do we have to leave for this service?
The chemical label stipulates that humans and pets need to be off of treated surfaces until they are dry. Finding something to do outside for about an hour is usually sufficient. Non-carpeted surfaces can be very slippery right after they are sprayed, so care must be taken if one needs to go inside within about 1 hour of treatment. (TOP)
Yes, the chemical used for fleas inside does have a slight odor. It is not offensive, but it will be present for awhile after treatment. Once the chemical is dry, you are free to enter and go about your normal activities. The odor is usually not noticeable for very long. (TOP)
Do you offer the boric powder for carpets?
No. Though these products are known to be very effective, there is some concern about premature wearing of carpet fibers. Since the boric powder is abrasive and resides at the bottom of the carpet pile, as you walk on the carpet, the fibers rub against this abrasive powder and could be frayed. I am concerned about the possible liability this presents to the person applying these kind of products. If one wishes to use powders, they can be purchased at some animal clinics and chemical supply stores such as Solutions. (TOP)
Absolutely. Customers who have been with Colony Pest Control for any length of time know that I am big on customers treating their own yards. With the ready-mixed sprays widely available today, it makes sense to do this yourself. It is cheaper and not difficult to do. Early evenings are the best time to apply the spray. This allows the spray to sit a bit before it gets hit with the daily sunlight which really reduces its effectiveness. Since yards really need to be treated on a fairly regular basis, it is much more cost effective to do this yourself. Of course, if you simply want the convenience of having it done, I am more than happy to do it. I simply cannot guarantee a lawn spray nor that it won't rain cats and dogs the day after I do it. (TOP)
If the wood floors are properly sealed, there should be no problem. Since flea populations are usually centered more in carpeted areas, I usually do most of my spraying there. I only go over the non-carpeted surfaces lightly to kill any adult fleas which might be resting there. Also, chemicals do not last as long on non-carpeted floors anyway. There is simply little gained by soaking wood, tile or linoleum surfaces with the flea spray. (TOP)
If Fido spends time on couches or chairs, yes, these will be treated. Fleas tend to be where animals spend time. If your animals are not allowed on the furniture, (and they are not misbehaving) I usually will not spray the furniture. If you don't wish the furniture to be sprayed, then of course I will not treat there. I will usually be able to let you know if it is necessary once I have asked my usual pretreatment questions. (TOP)
How long will I have fleas after treatment?
The general rule is about 14 days. It really depends on the level of infestation. If you have had fleas for quite awhile, the time will be close to or slightly over 14 days. If the problem has just popped up, it might be only about 7 days. The residual fleas are caused by the pupal stage emerging as adults. Fleas in the pupal sack are not affected by the sprays. Once they emerge as adults, the chemical will kill them. They will be able to hop about and be a bother though for a bit until the chemical gets into their system and finally kills them. Regular vacuuming during this time can speed up this whole process by causing the fleas in the pupal sack to emerge quicker. The chemical I use has a growth inhibitor that keeps new fleas from going into this troublesome pupal stage. (TOP)
How often should I be serviced for fleas?
I recommend service as needed. Though the chemical does have a fairly long residual, it is always a drag to get treated ahead of time and then have the chemical be no longer effective when the fleas are actually introduced. Fleas have really not been a big problem for several years now. Prevention is really the key! Keeping some kind of topical treatment on the animals and occasionally treating the lawn will go a long way towards keeping you from having to pay me to treat fleas. (TOP)
Valued visitors since 2/23/2000Page last edited on: 07/04/05